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| Majestic Mayon Volcano |
The Mayon Legend
Behind Mayon Volcano’s near-perfect cone elegance, like many Philippine folk tales about a particular locality, is quite a tragic love story of a beautiful woman and a gallant man. The brave Panganoron (or Ulap in some versions) and the lovely Magayon met one day, in a knight in shining armor moment, when Magayon slipped and fell into the deep part of a river while bathing; Panganoron, a warrior from another tribe, passes by and saves her from drowning. Magayon’s rescue started a romance that eventually led to Panganoron asking Makusog, Magayon’s father and the tribal chieftain, of his daughter's hand in marriage.
Upon hearing the news of the wedding, Magayon’s long time suitor, the villain Pagtuga, kidnapped Makusog and threatened Magayon of killing her father if she would not wed him instead. Magayon ended up marrying Pagtuga. But on the wedding day, Panganoron arrived and a bloody skirmish ensued. Magayon was shot in the chest by a poisonous arrow that went astray. Panganoron, while kneeling beside her dying sweetheart, was fatally attacked by one of Pagtuga’s men.
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| Mayon's billowing tip up close |
Makusog buried his daughter and her lover together to honor their bond. It was at the exact gravesite, the legend goes, where the symmetric mound of 2,463 meters above sea level—the highest point of Bicol Region and the Philippines’ most active volcano—had emerged inch by inch as years passed. People believe that when Mount Mayon rumbles and is about to erupt, it is Pagtuga bothering Magayon. When it is calm, Panganoron is cuddling her lady. When clouds cover the volcano’s tip, the mythical star-crossed lovers are sharing a kiss.
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Another belief is that Mount Mayon only shows itself to town visitors who are pure in heart. Panganoron, the cloud, covers his beloved Magayon to protect her whenever there is an evil spirit around. On my recent trip to Albay, Mount Mayon appeared in full. I am not sure about the “pure in heart,” but I am certain that we had in us the purest intention when we went there. I was with the Tourism Promotions Board, the marketing arm of the Department of Tourism, to not just enjoy, but to promote Bicol Region as well. We went there, along with other writers and travel influencers, to spread awareness about the region’s readiness to accept tourists again—for them to gaze upon, among others, Bicol’s crown jewel after the trying times of the pandemic.
Sumlang Lake
Mount Mayon was nowhere in sight when we landed at the Bicol International Airport in Daraga. It was a gloomy afternoon. But Mayon eventually surfaced after we left the airport and reached Sumlang Lake—a once neglected private property, now one of Albay’s favorite destinations among locals and tourists. Eight Albay municipalities (out of 18) surround Mount Mayon. The lake park, nestled in the town of Camalig, has one of the best vantage points to relish the volcano’s incredible symmetry.
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We spent the rest of the day in Sumlang Lake immersing ourselves in everything Bicolano: cooking demo and tasting of pinangat—the famous Bicolano dish that originated from Camalig; a showcase of how abaca (Musa textilis) fibers, one of Bicol Region’s premier products, were extracted from the tree’s soft trunk and woven into classy handbags, sturdy floor mats, table runners, kitchen trays and so forth; and a bamboo raft ride traversing the serene lake against a backdrop of the idyllic Mount Mayon with its billowing smoke that adds a pastoral charm.
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| Pinangat |
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| Abaca processing |
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| Bamboo raft ride in Sumlang Lake |
Sumlang Lake jump-started our trip around southern Bicol. The next days were allotted for Sorsogon and Masbate provinces and then back in Albay for another rendezvous with Mayon before we headed back to Manila. While on the first day at the lake park we savored Mayon’s allure from afar, we aimed to get near the volcano during the tail end of the six-day trip and it was no easy feat—it required an ATV (all-terrain vehicle) ride that passes along volcanic dirt roads, gushing streams and boulder-strewn slopes. Literally not a walk in the park.
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Mayon ATV Adventure
Mayon ATV tours started in the 2000s. Several trails were developed and the number of trails adds up every time Mayon erupts and leaves behind stunning formations of the lava flow. Each trail has its own distinguishing features, varied difficulty levels and different ATV rental rates, but they all share a panoramic vista of Mayon on the horizon, a sight that beckons riders to rev up the engine and zoom toward her as fast as they can.
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We took the 18-kilometer Black Lava Trail. I felt the excitement right away when one of the technicians kickstarted the engine of the single-seater ATV that I selected from the long line of available rides; the two-seaters were apparently for those who were not used to driving by themselves. We navigated the trail in a queue. No racing, no overtaking. We were quite a big group. Our trail marshals were making sure that no one was lagging too far behind. When we reached the first gushing creek following the dirt path that ensued when we left the ATV camp, I felt the adrenaline rushing within. I wanted to get drenched. I wanted to feel the adventure.
The dirt trail itself, even at times without Mayon in view, was a pleasant sight. Some parts were dotted with pine trees. Some were short creeks that needed to be crossed, while some were longer and wider that needed to be driven through opposing the direction of the streaming waters.
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| ATVs crossing shallow streams |
After more than two hours of hearing nothing but the cacophony of rumbling engines and occasional screams of excitement, we arrived at the Lava Wall camp. We alighted our ATVs and rushed for the trekking as it was already getting dark. The trek clocked about five minutes before we reached the base of the wall made up of volcanic debris—the Black Lava Wall was the aftermath of the 2006 eruption.
We scaled the stacked lava boulders that, I assume, towers about 10 to 15 meters. At the top was a paved helipad surrounded by a sea of sharp, wobbling rocks that extends as far as the base of the volcano. The helipad, says one of our local guides, is owned by Misibis Bay Resort and uses it to bring their guests closer to Mayon. Some sources say it is used for rescue missions during Mayon disasters.
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| At the helipad near Mount Mayon |
Black Lava Wall was once a terrifying sight—burning orange semi-liquid rocks cascading down as the beautiful but deadly volcano released its wrath. Today, the remnant of an eruption is a platform for a dramatic 360-degree view of Albay Gulf and Legazpi City’s skyline on one side and a larger vista of Mount Mayon on the other. Right in front of us, only about six kilometers away, was Mayon once again uncovered by clouds. The last minutes of sunset added a charm, a fiery glow to the clouds floating around the volcano’s pointed crest.
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| Sunset view of Mount Mayon |
To behold Mount Mayon’s literally smoking hot charm and to be able to touch the sediments that it had coughed up in the past was exceptional. Mayon is far more beautiful than in the pictures. She is mesmerizing, I was smitten. With both unobstructed views when we were in Sumlang Lake and at the helipad of the Black Lava Wall, I would like to believe that Panganoron saw something good in me, that on my first time in Albay, he allowed me to fully see his beauteous lady.
Book Your Trip
Click here to book a tour in Sumlang Lake and click here to book an ATV tour. These are Klook affiliate links. Note that I may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you, when you book through this link. Thank you!
ABOUT
DJ Rivera is an I.T. professional, entrepreneur, travel blogger, writer and the online publisher of PinoyTravelogue.com based in Rizal province, Philippines. Click here to know more.
